Lamkhaga Pass adventure – The river crossings from Nithal to Baspa glacier

This post is part 3 in the Lamkhaga Pass Trek series. Click here to read the Part 2 of the Lamkhaga pass series.

After a cake walk on the first two days, we geared up for adventurous things lying ahead for us. With extreme cold conditions leading to dry skin, some wheatish faces in our group had started changing to white faces coated with layers of sunscreens by the start of day 3.

Coated with the layers of sunscreen 😛

After a 2km walk from our campsite, we arrived at the Karu Devta temple. Karu Devta is the presiding deity of Dumti. A small shivling and karu devta is present in this temple.

Karu devta temple – The presiding diety of Dumti

Happy ji was telling us that even ITBP had been following the traditions and practice of locals to offer a prasad in this temple every morning before starting to cook for that day. He added that if any villager is taking his goat or sheeps beyond this point, the villager would sacrifice one of his goats/sheeps here before proceeding further.

Offering prayers at the Karu Devta temple

The trail beyond Dumti had given us some wallpaper views, however the reality hit me as we stepped into the rocky trails. A mild pain had started in my ankle after we crossed the flat surfaces and started walking into the rock patches. However, it was a very mild pain and I was confident of finishing off the day’s walk and was hoping for a late night magic for much steeper ascents waiting for us near the Lamkhaga pass.

Stepping into the rocky trails

We came across herds of thick skinned cows chilling out and grazing in the valleys of snow-capped peaks. The cows that had been left near Nagasthi had travelled to this point.

Time to relax after a long walk

Happy ji was telling us that the thick skinned cows cannot survive the slightly hot weather after winters, hence its left to graze on it’s own in the high hills for 3 to 4 months.

Thick skinned cows chilling out in the valleys of snow capped peaks

He added that the villagers manage their living with one cow for few months till the winter and would go on search of the herd during the beginning of winter. It was interesting to hear from him that no wild animals roamed in this part of Kinnaur and the herd of cows left to graze here would usually be found in it’s full count by the villagers.

Some serious discussion about the village life & cattle while waiting for the team to regroup

We were also joined in the trail by ITBP jawans who had to camp at Nithal tach. The ITBP jawans were reminding us every now and then to hydrate ourselves, protect ourselves with the monkeys caps instead of exposing our ears to the heavy winds of these hills in our yet another long walk along the river. And, there started the second round of conversations with ITBP jawans.

Juice, conversations and selfies with ITBP 🙂

From current affairs to experience in Indian army, we had talked almost almost everything that had flashed into our minds then. Then the conversation drifted to gundar nala crossing that lay ahead of Nithal Tach. ITBP jawans passed us some energy drinks to us and we had stopped for a short break. The commander of Dumti started describing how the ITBP personnel cross the Gundar nala if situation demands them to do so. He said everytime when someone in ITBP needed to reach Gundar, they would apply mustard oil all over their body, walk through the super cold/ electrying waters and then cross it as water level may sometimes even reach their shoulders

Porters of Lamkhaga team marching towards Nithal

With our trek happening in last week of May, he added that we might just get a little lucky as water levels may not be that high in May. Having had a long break here, it was time to move ahead. 

Yamrang peaks – The beginning of the Indo-Tibet border

After a walk of few minutes, the Yamrang peaks were just in front of us. After an uneven patch, we had finally come down to the valley and the flat river beds greeted us. Time just flew away as we walked along the river bed hearing out the adventures of few ITBP jawans.

Soaking up the sight and enjoying every moment in the valley
Snow time near Nithal tach

It started to snow as we were just a few minutes behind Nithal. Few of us moving in the mountain trail with ITBP could see the dwarfed figures of rest of our trek group crossing the Sunthi meadows from a slightly higher inclination. Nature keeps reminding us that humans and their problems are so tiny in front of Mother nature. However, despite our tiny size, we, humans continue to use too many of our natural resources at an alarming pace ignoring the warning signs from every other natural disaster.

Team Lamkhaga walking along the Nithal nadi

Cheerfully schlepping our grocieries, tents and sleeping bags, few porters got past us in the mild snow as they had to rush through and set up the campsite before the weather becomes worse.

Porters, the overlooked guardian angels of a mountain expedition

Camping in high hills, far far away from the human habitation and yet experiencing the luxury of tasty cooked food and some good sleep in thick sleeping bags/tents is an inevitable dream without the support of the porters, who carry heavy loads of groceries and other items just for a few hundred rupees a day. The physical support provided by the porters to fulfill the dreams of few trekkers despite the challenging weather conditions are often overlooked. They are the indisputable guardian angels of a mountain expedition.

Moderate snow showers in Nithal ITBP campsite

Our trek group had our lunch amidst the mild snow in Nithal, while Sonu Negi ji was helping the porters cross the river beyond Nithal. It was the same sight that the commander of Dumti had described us. From top, we could see the porters removing their layers and crossing the river with the luggage on top of their head.

Heading towards the gundar nala

Just after the snow intensified, the commander of Dumti came to us and announced that they have worked out a jugaad for us to cross the river. As he had to immediately head back to Dumti, we bid him goodbye with some final handshakes and wondered what was in store at the river crossing.

The river crossings from Nithal to Gundar

Luckily, the water levels in the spot chosen for us to cross the Gundar nala wasn’t that high as we had imagined. After hopping through a stretch of rocks and crossing a proper bridge, we were standing in front of the two more water crossing points.


Water was flowing in it’s full force. Happy ji and some more support staff brought a ladder and positioned it for us to cross the river. We realized this was the jugaad that the commander of Dumti had mentioned to us back in Nithal.

With ladder in it’s position, it was time for an initial load test. Happy ji and a support staff hopped and jumped crazily over the ladder to check if it could withstand our weight. Chetan Phalke from our group captured a small part of Happy ji’s crazy hopping to reach the other side.

Our time to cross the gundar nala with ITBP ladders

Then, it was our time to cross the river with the ladders. With the first one done with ease, we had one more water crossing lying ahead.

There hasn’t been a day that has passed without me lamenting to people on my inability to put on weight despite my hearty appetite. However, my less weight proves to be a great blessing when it comes to climbing or jumping over boulders and rocks. This time a river crossing with ladder was done and dusted with ease :).

Campsite at Gundar

After the river crossing and some slow walk along the uneven patches, we finally arrived at the Gundar campsite. The ankle pain had intensified on third day and reduced my pace. After campfire and a tasty dinner, it was time to hit the bed.

Clear skies in Gundar on day 4

In every walk of nature, we receive far more than what we seek. We were blessed with some mesmerizing views of snow peaked mountains as we hopped over some more rocks to cross the rivers.

More and more river crossings beyond Gundar

The trails had turned uneven after Nithal and we came to a screeching halt near the Baspa river crossing, about 2 kms from Gundar. We had to cross the river to get to the other side and about 3 feet of water was flowing in it’s full force. A walk in the super cold water was on the cards.

First Gautham ji and Kohinoor removed off some of their layers and went to the other side. Then, Happy and Rajeev along with three of us held each other’s hands and we formed a chain and crossed the river. Thanks to the lovely capture by Gautham ji (view video in above FB post), this memory (me, Chetan and Hiren crossing Baspa river) is as fresh as it just happened yesterday.

Group near the Baspa glacier
The majestic Baspa river that flows through Kinnaur starts from here, the Baspa glacier

After some hiking beyond the Baspa glacier, we had finally reached the lower basecamp of Lamkhaga pass by 12 noon.

Inching closer to the lower basecamp of Lamkhaga pass
Rajeev giving us demo on how to slide down in snow in Lamkhaga lower basecamp

After a long halt of lunch and some tutorials from Happy and Rajeev on snow sliding, we moved further ahead. With a major part of day still left, it was indeed a sensible decision to skip camping in the lower basecamp and go further ahead. The path beyond Baspa glacier has been steep and the path ahead wasn’t going to be an easy hike.

The trails beyond the Lamkhaga lower basecamp

With the legs washing off my pain killers, my legs literally went on a toss walking over the rocks and uneven surface. The treacherous uphill climb was like adding fuel to fire to an exhausted and injured ankle.

The zombie walk beyond lower base camp

But I wasn’t the only one doing the zombie walk. Almost the entire group had become tired few meters up. It was like a never-ending hike.

The never ending hike beyond Lamkhaga lower base camp. Image credits: Aditya Prabakarn

All of us in the group had become completely exhausted. We were counting our steps and taking a break after every 30 to 50 steps. We had been walking, and walking.. and walking.. but the campsite was nowhere near sight. The thought of hiking up with an injured ankle is always easier said than done. With ankle pain turning deadly with every step, I was unsure if I could even make it to the campsite and just hoped I don’t crash or faint somewhere in snow.

To be continued in part 4

Know the altitudes:
Gundar 4050m
Lamkhaga lower basecamp 4400m

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